For more than four hours in the comfort of air conditioning had been rising very slowly from the depths of the Turpan Basin, which at its lowest point is over 500 meters below sea level - the second lowest in the depression in the world. Hami for us was as welcome a sight as it should have been for centuries for caravans of merchants and travelers of transport in the Silk Road. One must inevitably cross the Gobi desert to get here. This part of the Gobi is often formidable and implacable Hami basin located to the north as a double and east of Turpan. Flanked by steep hills bare below three thousand feet, over snowy mountains to the north and south range extends this colorful landscape under a clear blue sky as far as the eye can see.
The road is mostly straight - has some twists and turns as it follows the gentle contours of the dunes drifting over them like waves one after another, sometimes carving a channel - a pure side canyon - through an irregular ridge that rises to close the road. Regular mileage markers, four digits to announce the remoteness of the place - over 4,000 kilometers from Beijing. At intervals shorter white poles marking protect the underground gas pipeline, which embraces the narrow road. It is not a place you want to stop for a long time and only made two. The first was a pit stop in a desolate and almost deserted gas station a couple of hours on the trip. The baths were to the back, exposed - only white walls around the deep holes in the ground, in the open. We ladies were in line - an orderly queue at the only shadow on the wall of detection.
It was hot and out yet. As I stood beside the road looking in the direction of Turpan, the black asphalt tape was lost in a mirage - brilliant, fascinating - beckoning me back on the horizon in a deep depression in the desert. There are few signs of life. Not a blade of green dares to tango with the sun. Although it was mid summer we were fortunate to have a couple of cooler days, but as we move through Hami this depression in the desert know that hot, very hot is all we can expect for the rest of our time in Xinjiang and Gansu - in fact, it was hot everywhere we travel in China that summer unless we were at altitude. As travelers ourselves before this oasis desired following - the green, trees, shade, cool water.
Hami is a wonderfully refreshing attraction has added to its prestige. Among the many locally grown crops - wheat, corn, cotton, rapeseed, and fruit - the humble melon is higher. Of these dry desert sands grows one of the finest and sweetest melons made famous after the local Islamic Hami King chose them as his gift of homage to the Qing Emperor. In fact it was the emperor Kungxi who gave them the name of Hami melon on the ground that they had none. During the two months long, bumpy ride camels on many of the melons from Beijing did not survive. Even later, when travel time was reduced to only two weeks ago by courier horse relay, only one strain outperformed all others. The sweet variety Jiageda, hard, leather plaid King of Hami satisfied with its hardiness and its headiness Qing Court. Now is the most famous and popular of the thirty varieties of melon with sugar content of between ten and eighteen. Like the grapes of Turpan Hami melons sampled are best fresh from the farm.
We arrived around noon, only to discover that there was only buses during the day twice a week to Jiayuguan, our oasis next door and there would be no bus today. The alternative, a coach of bed at night do not interest us much. Having spent the previous night sleeping rough under a spectacular starry sky billion in the desert near Huoyanshan (Flaming Mountains) were all in need of a shower and a comfortable bed, so I went in search of a hotel. The first person I asked said where he could find one and then accompanied me all the way to the front desk to make sure I found it. I booked a triple room - great value for money - in the Hotel de la power and took a taxi back to the bus station to pick up my mother, sister and our luggage. I expected the taxi driver waiting for me - after all I had not paid, but when he returned to the parking lot with his taxi was nowhere.
After freshening up the city we went to the train station in search of the train tickets available. Once again there were not many options and we came away with soft seat tickets on the nights following train leaving at eight in the evening. After resting in the cool of our hotel room in the afternoon we ventured out later in search of something tasty for dinner. No other plans to spend possibly a night before moving Hami now had the whole day to explore, but little information about the place, apart from historical accounts by early missionaries working or passing through here during the first part of last century. We take our time and be happy with what we found in the city. Just a few blocks from the hotel were the markets for everything imaginable for sale as harry potter by the stops in buying cool snack on now and later on the train. In the end we left the market in a huge city square.
At first glance, we wonder if we had been transformed into France. Framed and almost overshadowed by tall weeping willows on the other end of the plaza was modeled on the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs Elysees without, of course, but for a moment thought he had entered Paris. A reality check soon brought us back to earth. Summer days are long in Xinjiang and was still "hot" in the late afternoon. We ran into a dead shade to the left of the square filled with small outdoor diners each with three or four tables where we sat and ordered bowls of noodles hot and spicy lamb kebabs, Uygur style.
After dinner hot and fresh soft ice cream suck wandered slowly through the square, stopping occasionally to view the premises. Many children enjoy the simplicity of slipping down the slope of polished marble stairs next to the central gardens podium. friendly greetings came often interspersed with curious eyes of the residents happy, generous and kind. Twilight came and went and as the curtain of darkness began to fall we were invited to join a jovial group of young adults eating and drinking and having fun in a new outdoor restaurant near the entrance back to the gardens and the plaza. Under cover of darkness we have completed our circuitous route back to the hotel feel like sleeping in a bed.
The next morning after breakfast at the hotel and a late start we went in search of the post office to buy stamps and post some letters. Walking to the left of the hotel, we passed new markets and continued until the street crossed a broad new avenue, with shops and boutiques endless. We had fallen in the new city of Hami, which has been rebuilt several times over the ruins of the old and moved completely once. Turn right on this main road took us across the river and eventually curved around the city to the train station. Now the sun was high and we were hot. Across the river, one of the many parks Hami we waved green and shade trees around an artificial lake. What better place for us to rest and wait for our train departure at night?
A second block of ice was almost more important than finding a cool place to sit. Sprinklers and hoses leaking meant no enough water to cool off with. We were not the only ones looking for a cool and quiet to escape the heat. This end of the park attractions include children, a round carousel and a shooting gallery. Had not been long there when a young couple approached us with shy smiles and a lot of questions. Before long the two had increased to eight, with acting as his spokesman. In response to our question of whether he liked learning English gave a resounding no but he also understood the advantages that gave him and so do not miss the opportunity before us to practice with native speakers. My sister then got out some cute animal stickers I had brought from home for just such occasions and with my nail scissors dull the blades cut into pieces enough to share with children as a form of encouragement.
Also in the park, we discovered a group of tents yurt-style beneath the cover spread of large old trees - the air temperature significantly cooler. These teahouses popular outdoor semi offers a wonderful way to spend our time. Colorful raised platforms covered with Persian rugs, where guests resting on cushions, drinking tea or beer and playing cards. Others relaxed in a chair covered with bamboo around low tables enjoying the delicious roast lamb kebabs large open braziers. We followed by frozen yogurt kebabs - cool and the cake - for our last lunch and were happy not losing these treats.
Tree stains of music could be heard as a teacher and his students practiced in the shelter of the gazebo park. Finally it was time to make the way back to the station to retrieve our luggage, take a last bite to eat and retire to the relative cool of the waiting room. The prospect of six hours in the soft seats Jiayuguan arriving at two in the morning was not good but I would take it every day instead of six days or seven days collected from the back of a camel.
With cooler weather, more flexible hours and time to explore, Hami provides a wide variety of natural and historical attractions. The tomb of King Muslim, ancient tombs mummified bodies, light towers, temples, rock paintings, mysterious sculptures of stone, sand and whispers are just a few all within easy access in and around Hami.
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